Showing posts with label braise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label braise. Show all posts

Monday, August 17, 2009

Poulet au Vin

I won't call this coq au vin since I didn't use a rooster. I'm fresh out of old roosters at the moment. I need to ask my dad to send me some. (I'm not kidding. My dad has roosters. My dad does not live in the country. His roosters are in the heart of San Diego, California.)

I've been hearing so much about Julia Child in the past weeks so I thought about a dish she is famous for. This is not her recipe. It is my lazy stovetop method. I didn't do any oven braising. I don't think it is all that necessary when you are not using a rooster or an old stewing hen. I'm using all natural chicken thighs and drums.

Shhh...Don't tell anyone but I used frozen wine. I am the only one who drinks wine in the house and with my various medications and because I am now a lightweight, I have to watch how much I drink. A whole bottle doesn't get consumed very quickly so I freeze them in ice cube trays or in 2-cup portions so that I can add them to different sauces and dishes.

The pictures are horrible. How do you take pretty pictures of a not so pretty dish? It is the same way I feel about photographing cassoulet. Love the stuff (except for the duck confit) but doesn't photograph well.

Poulet au Vin

8 ounces bacon, diced
3 chicken leg quarters, cut into drums and thighs
3 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour
1 medium onion, diced
2 carrots, diced
1 celery rib diced
2 cloves garlic
8 ounces mushrooms, quartered
2 teaspoons parsley
½ teaspoon rosemary
½ teaspoon thyme
2 bay leaves
2 cups red wine
1 tablespoons sugar
splash lemon juice
salt
pepper

1. In dutch oven, render bacon. Remove bacon and reserve.
2. Brown chicken in rendered bacon fat. Transfer chicken onto a platter.
3. Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic and cook until soft. Add mushrooms and cook until mushrooms are tender. Add the flour to make a semi-roux for thickening (the culinary term is singer and pronounced san-jay). Add parsley, rosemary, thyme and bay leaves.
4. Deglaze with wine, bring to a low boil and cook uncovered about 10 minutes. Cover and continue to cook until chicken is tender (approximately 40 minutes). Add sugar, lemon juice and adjust seasoning.

I didn't have thick cut bacon or lardons so the regular bacon went into the pot.

Damn pot doesn't brown very well but I didn't feel like using a regular cast iron to brown and then transferring pots.

Mirepoix?

Button mushrooms. The grocery store was out of my usual baby bellas aka creminis.


Throw the chicken back in.


Add the wine.


Braise until chicken is cooked through.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Carnitas


We had suite tickets for Dane Cook on Sunday night. Before going we met up with some friends at their house. Since my friend’s husband was planning on staying behind to watch the new baby, we decided to bring dinner over. I made carnitas.

Carnitas are traditionally slow cooked in its own fat in a large copper pan called a “caso.” Some methods of cooking are not well suited for the modern kitchen. If I was at my parent’s or my grandparent’s home cooking chunks of meat in a large pot of fat would not be a problem at all. My mom used to do this all the time in large 10 gallon pots. So here is the compromise. I slow braised it with a little water for about 2 hours, let the meat cool, brown the pieces in its own rendered fat plus more rendered bacon fat. (My Boston butt was not very fatty so I needed a little more fat to help with the browning.) I served them as the filling for soft tacos.

3 to 4 pounds Boston butt, sliced into 1 ½ inch slices)
salt
pepper
2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon Mexican cut oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
2 cups water
bacon drippings or oil, as needed

Accompaniments:
corn tortillas
guacamole
salsa verde
bottle taco sauce
cheese, shredded

Method:
1. Marinate sliced pork with salt, pepper, ancho chile, Mexican oregano, garlic and bay leaves overnight or at least 4 hours.
2. In a cast iron dutch oven add the marinated pork and water and bring to a simmer. Braise for two hours. After two hours, drain the liquid but reserve the drippings. (I use the pork liquid to cook the rice.)
3. Shallow fry the pork in the reserved drippings plus additional bacon drippings or oil, if needed. Fry until the pieces are crispy. Cut the meat into small chunks.
4. Serve with tortillas, guacamole, salsa, cheese and any other taco garnishes.

Thursday, April 02, 2009

Five Spice and Soy Braised Chicken with Hardboiled Eggs





Five Spice and Soy Braised Pork with Hardboiled Eggs is a dish near and dear to my heart. I think there are several variations of this dish and I am pretty sure they originated from China. In Vietnam it is called Thit Kho Trung. In Thailand it is called Moo Pa-Loh. In Malaysia it is called Tau Yu Bak. In Japan it is called Buta Kakuni. In Chinese it is called Dong Po Rou. I suspect the Filipino Adodo also originated from China.

When I decided on becoming semi-vegetarian, I couldn’t live without this dish. Over the years I have worked on an alternative using chicken instead of pork belly. To this day I still make it with chicken instead of pork even though I now eat pork. (Stay tuned for the pork belly version.) My mom made this using either pork belly (she calls it three-layer pork) or pork shanks. The pork shanks make this very gelatinous. The chicken is not quite as delicious as the pork belly but the trade off is a lower calorie and fat dish that is still very satisfying. I attribute my low cholesterol and blood pressure levels to both my genes and years of red meat-free diet. My cholesterol levels have increased a bit since I started adding red meat back in my diet.

I’ve experimented with several different chicken parts. White meat works but it must not be cooked very long. Ideally a whole chicken works best but I’ve done this with chicken drumsticks or thighs. I’ve gotten a bit lazy over the years. I like buying pre-fabricated pieces instead of whole chicken and fish. I have been trained on butchering and can cut up a chicken perfectly in less than 5 minutes. Today, after picking up my knives at Sur la Table, I stopped by the store and purchased a whole chicken. (It is the annual spring cutlery event at Sur la Table and they will sharpen two knives for free.) My boning knife is now sharp again. You ask why I don’t sharpen my own knives? I’m not very good at it. The steel that comes with your knife set is only for honing. It doesn’t actually sharpen it. Ideally knives should be sharpened using a stone. I tried learning but I never got the angle correct. I can hone a knife.

I’m trying to cook smaller amounts of food. I find that I was too much. I cook like I have five kids.

3 tablespoons Sugar
2 tablespoons Oil
½ onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ chicken, cut into small pieces (My chicken was super duper huge, weighing over 5 pounds. I used the wings, drumsticks, and thighs. I deboned the drumsticks and thighs but did not toss the bones. I cooked the bones in the liquid and discarded after the simmering.)
2 tablespoons Chinese five spice powder
1 star anise
1 Chinese black cardamom
1 cinnamon stick
1 piece dried galangal root
2 kaffir lime leaves
1 5 inch section lemon grass
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
salt, to taste
pepper, to taste
msg, to taste
water, to cover
6 hardboiled eggs


1. Heat sugar in a large dutch oven until caramelized. Add oil, onions, and garlic. Cook a few seconds. Add chicken pieces and brown. Add the rest of the ingredients except for eggs.

2. Bring to a boil and lower heat to simmer. Add eggs. Simmer until tender. I like to baste the eggs with the cooking liquid.

3. Remove lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, cardamom, star anise, and cinnamon stick before serving.


I like it served on top of hot jasmine rice. I mash the eggs up and mix them in with the rice and broth. For me it is all about the egg and the broth. The meat is only for flavoring.


I think the star anise and the black (Chinese) cardamon are the stars of this dish.


Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Oven-Braised Beef Stew



I’m still cooking meals for the new parents. I wanted to make something that reheats well and tastes better as it sits and the flavors meld together. I was talking to a co-worker and she swore by the Barefoot Contessa’s beef stew recipe. She said the recipe is called “Parker’s Beef Stew” but there are two variations of the same recipe out there. The recipe currently posted on the food network is the inferior recipe. She said the “good” recipe had bacon.

I searched and I searched and I found it online. I'm the google queen. When I got home I also found the recipe in my Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics cookbook. This is what I don’t like about Ina Garten’s recipes. She publishes several versions of the same recipe. You make something and then you go back to find the recipe again and it has morphed. I realize she probably alters it as the recipe evolves but she should make sure that the recipe posted on a site like the food network is the most recent recipe.

My co-worker gave me a few tips for making this recipe. She said she only uses enough wine to cover the beef. The recipe calls for an entire bottle for the marinade and then to discard all but 2 ½ cups. Why waste good wine? My co-worker also said to use less wine (just over a cup of the 2 ½ cups Ina calls for) or else the wine flavor will be too overpowering. I also read a few reviews about the wine flavor. I doubled the recipe and I only used about 2 ½ cups wine to cover the 5 pounds of beef.

I found the recipe a little flawed or at least a little harder to successfully orchestrate. The recipe may make sense to a seasoned cook but can be a recipe for failure for an amateur. This recipe was not written for "Beef Stew for Dummies." I read many reviews on the food network. The recipe posted was the inferior recipe but it was very close to the newer improved recipe. There shouldn't be so many varying ratings. Many people raved about the recipe and said it was the best beef stew recipe ever. Many people also rated it 1 star and said they tried eating it but ended up tossing the entire pot of very expensive stew. I'm posting the original recipe as written and then I am posting what I did. I think recipe itself is pretty good with some minor changes and interpretation. I did double the recipe and some of method changes were due to pot and pan constraints.

Five pounds of bottom round steak. Ina said to use a chuck but the bottom round steak was on sale and it is suitable for stew. I left some of the fat on the cubes because it helps with the browning and the flavor. However, I did remove the sinewy pieces.

PARKER’S BEEF STEW
Ina's favorite winter dish is easy to reheat and tastes even better the next day!

Serves 6

2 1/2 pounds good-quality chuck beef, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes
1(750 ml bottle) good red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
3 whole garlic cloves, smashed
3 bay leaves
6 ounces bacon, cut in 1-inch pieces
All-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Good olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions
2 tablespoons minced garlic (4 cloves)
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut diagonally in 1 1/2-inch chunks
1 pound small potatoes, halved or quartered
1 (14 1/2 ounce can) beef stock
1 large (2 small) branch fresh rosemary
1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and sliced
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas (not petits pois)

1.  Place the beef in a bowl with the red wine (I use a good one since it’s an important flavor), whole garlic, and bay leaves. Place in the refrigerator and allow to marinate overnight.

2. The next day, preheat the oven to 300˚F.

3.  Brown the bacon in a large (12-inch) sauté pan for 5 to 7 minutes, over medium-low heat. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset. Combine 2 cups of flour, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper. Lift the beef out of the marinade and discard the bay leaves and garlic, saving the marinade. In batches, dredge the cubes of beef in the flour mixture and then shake off the excess. In the sauté pan, brown half the beef over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes, turning to brown evenly. Place the beef in the Dutch oven with the bacon and continue to brown the remaining beef, placing it all in the Dutch oven.

4. Lower the heat to medium-low, add the onions to the sauté pan, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the carrots and potatoes and cook for 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally.

Place all the vegetables in the Dutch oven with the beef. Add 2 1/2 cups of the reserved marinade (discard the rest) to the sauté pan and cook over high heat to deglaze the bottom of the pan, scraping up all the brown bits with a wooden spoon. Add the beef stock, rosemary, sun-dried tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, 1 tablespoon salt, and 2 teaspoons pepper. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables in the Dutch oven and bring it to a simmer over medium heat on top of the stove. Cover the pot and place it in the oven for 2 hours, until the meat and vegetables are all tender, stirring once during cooking. If the stew is boiling rather than simmering, lower the heat to 250˚F or 275˚F.

5.  When the stew is done and the meat is tender, whisk 2 tablespoons of flour and 1 cup of the sauce together and pour it back into the stew. Simmer for 3 minutes, until thickened. Stir in the frozen peas, season to taste, and serve hot.


Malisa's Take on Parker's Beef Stew
serves 12

5 pounds good-quality boneless bottom round beef, cut into 1 inch cubes
2 1/2 cups good red wine, (I used a Pinot Noir.)
6 whole garlic cloves, smashed
6 bay leaves
Rendered bacon fat, as needed (I didn't think it was necessary to actually cook up some bacon since it will disintegrate into the stew. I already have a reserve of rendered bacon and duck fat in the fridge.)
1 cup all-purpose flour
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cups chopped yellow onions
4 tablespoons minced garlic (8 cloves)
2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut diagonally in 1 1/2-inch chunks
2 pounds small potatoes, halved or quartered (I used rose gold potatoes. The skins are red but they act just like a yukon gold.)
2 (14 1/2 ounce can) beef stock
2 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and sliced
4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 (12-ounce) package frozen peas (not petits pois)

1.  Place the beef in a bowl with the red wine, smashed garlic, and bay leaves. Place in the refrigerator and allow to marinate overnight. (I marinated the beef almost 24 hours because of my schedule.)

Cubes of beef marinating in pinot noir, bay leaves, and garlic. The beef smelled really good after sitting in the marinade for almost 24 hours.

2. The next day, preheat the oven to 300˚F.

3. Strain the beef and reserve the marinade. (I did this immediately when I got home and changed. This is important because I read that by lifting the beef cubes out of the marinade into the seasoned flour, as instructed by Ina, the beef was coated with too much flour resulting in a too thick stew and the liquid in the beef made it difficult to brown.)

4. Add bacon fat to a heated cast iron dutch oven.

5. Combine 1 cup of flour with 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper.

6. Dredge the strained beef cubes in the seasoned flour and brown the beef in batches. Discard the bay leaves and garlic. Place the browned beef in a large bowl. (The original recipe called for 2 cups of flour, 1 tablespoon of kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon of black pepper. Many people complained that the recipe was too salty, too peppery, and too thick. I don't think Ina intended the entire 2 cups (in my case it would be 4 cups) be used for the dredging. When you dredge, you usually have more flour in the bowl but you don't use it all. Also there is a difference between kosher salt and finer grain table salt. I am currently using a finer grain sea salt so I adjust my recipes accordingly.)

7. When done browning the last batch of beef, return the previous batches to the dutch oven. Add the marinade to deglaze. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up all the brown bits on the bottom of the dutch oven. Bring to a boil, add the beef broth, allow to come back to boil and reduce to a simmer.

8. Meanwhile in a separate pan on medium heat, saute the potatoes in rendered bacon fat. Cook about 5 minutes or until slightly golden. Transfer potatoes to a large bowl. Saute the carrots in rendered bacon fat about 5 minutes. Transfer to the large bowl with the potatoes. Saute onions in bacon fat about 3 minutes, add minced garlic and saute about 1 minute longer. Transfer onions and garlic to bowl with potatoes and carrots. Stir to mix. (I did this in a separate pan instead of the same pan as the beef because I wanted the beef to get a head start with the simmering. I also had to cook the veggies in batches since I doubled the recipe.)

9. Add rosemary, thyme, sun-dried tomatoes, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce to simmering beef. Simmer the beef about 45 minutes. (There are two reasons why I decided to braise on the stovetop for 45 minutes. The first reason is to make sure the alcohol cooks off. The second reason is because I didn't want the vegetables to get mushy with the long oven braising. Many people said that the simmering helps with the over-powering wine flavor. Some people also said the vegetables virtually disintegrate after two hours of oven braising.)

10. Divide the sauteed vegetables between two dutch ovens, two covered casseroles, or any combination of oven-proof covered cooking vessels. Divide the simmered beef and liquid between the vessels. Stir to combine the vegetables and beef. Cover and braise in oven for about 1 1/2 hours. (You can also braise at a lower temp for a longer time.)

This is after the combining and before the oven braising.


11. While the stew is braising, toast the leftover dredging flour. You can do this in the oven or on the stovetop. This is just in case you may need more flour to thicken the stew. By toasting the flour, you will get rid of the "raw" flour taste. When the stew is done and if it needs a little more thickening, whisk the toasted flour with some of the stew liquid and mix it in the stew. Return it back to the oven and braise a few minutes more. (I didn't make a roux because there was enough fat already in the pot and I didn't want to add any more. Many people complained that the stew was too oily. They probably used a lot of fat to brown the meat and vegetables. Ina suggests whisking 2 tablespoons of flour with 1 cup of the stew liquid and pouring it back in the stew. I don't like this method. You can use cornstarch or arrowroot as a last minute thickener but cornstarch will break down and lose its thickening power in about 10 minutes of cooking.)
12. When stew is done, taste, adjust seasonings, and add the frozen peas. (Ina gave amounts for salt and pepper in her recipe. I don't usually like to unless it is a baking formula. Many people complain that the recipe was too salty and too peppery. I think they added all the dredging flour to the pot and/or they used table salt while Ina calls for kosher salt. I tend to under-salt my food since I have a pretty sensitive palate. Maybe as I get older, my taste buds will start to die off and I will need to be a little heavy-handed on the salt.)

After 1 1/2 hours of oven-braising, the meat was tender but the veggies were not mushy.
I actually don't know how the stew tastes. I don't eat beef or at least beef when it resembles beef. Everyone said it was delicious.