Saturday, March 04, 2017

Fluffy Milk Cinnamon Raisin Rolls and Coconut Custard Bread Using Tangzhong Water Roux




This wasn't the bread I was planning on baking when I got up on Sunday morning. I spent the entire week formulating a recipe to replicate the Muesli Morning Rounds from Ozery Bakery.  You know that small piece of yummy flat bread Starbucks includes in their Protein Bistro Boxes? I picked up a bag of it from Sprouts and as I bit into one, I thought "this can't be too difficult to make." I read the ingredients and I started jotting down a recipe. 

I knew it was too late on Sunday evening to start baking bread. The forecast called for rain again over the weekend. I spent the week researching substitutes for a few ingredients I knew I would not be able to get. The ingredients were mainly natural dough enhancers and preservatives.  I wanted the fluffy texture of the Ozery bread but I couldn't find cultured wheat starch anywhere.  During my search I ran across a recipe for fluffy Asian bread using water roux called tangzhong.

I remember using the tangzhong water roux method  a few times but it's been a few years.  I dug up an old recipe for Hokkaido milk bread.  You can basically use tangzhong in almost any bread recipe by calculating a percentage of flour and water for the water roux. I started off baking hamburger buns on Saturday because we needed buns for our turkey burgers. It turned out really well, except I was impatient and didn't let the first batch rise enough before baking.  I was hoping for more oven spring.

I bookmarked three bread recipes.  Two were healthy and the third was decadent. On Sunday morning, I woke up undecided.  I asked hubby which of the three I should bake. Cook's Illustrated multigrain bread using 7 grain cereal, my untested Ozery muesli morning rounds recipe, or a cinnamon raisin milk bread using the split braid/twist method that Chris Kimball used for his cinnamon raisin bread. I guess cinnamon raisin sounds a lot better than multigrain and muesli.

I had healthy intentions all week. I even did the whole meal prep thing all week.  I have about 5 pounds that I want to lose and bread is one of my greatest weaknesses.  I did manage to give half of it to my dad and this morning I ate two hard boiled eggs and gave the bread I packed to one of my coworkers.

I forgot how much I love soft and fluffy Asian bread.  Make this milk bread.  Make it plain without any filling and without any complicated rolling or braiding.  It is amazing eaten warm out of the oven or toasted over the next few days. Or be a little adventurous and fill it with taro, azuki beans, coconut, ube, cinnamon raisins, or just raisins. Wrap pieces of the dough around a hot dog.

In my house, the cinnamon raisin has better label appeal.  The grandparents prefer it filled with taro paste. My favorite is coconut. The coconut filling is yummy.  The recipe below makes a smaller amount of coconut filling that adds a subtle coconut flavor. It can easily be doubled or tripled. It is basically equal amounts by weight of egg, coconut, sugar, and butter with a touch of salt and powdered milk.

The cinnamon raisin filling is from Cook's Illustrated. I'm not sure I like the powdered sugar.  I much prefer my cinnabon filling but I think the powdered sugar works best for this split twist method.

This recipe is measured in volume rather than weight.  I find that it's not as crucial to have exact measurements. Even when weighing flour, the amount of liquid needed varies a tad. I usually make dough by the feel of the dough, starting with a slightly more wet dough and adding a little flour to get the right texture.

Milk Bread with Coconut Custard or Cinnamon Raising Filling

Tangzhong Water Roux:
1/3 cup bread flour
1 cup water (or replace with milk for richer bread)

Milk Bread Dough:
1/2 cup milk
half of tangzhong made from above
1 large egg, whisked
1 tablespoon milk powder
2 1/2 cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons instant yeast
3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

Coconut Filling:
1 ounce egg (use half an egg and reserve the other half for egg wash)
1 ounce flaked coconut (either sweetened or unsweetened; adjust sugar if using unsweetened)
1 ounce sugar
1 ounce butter
pinch salt
1 teaspoon powdered milk
few drops of half & half or milk to make filling slightly moist

Cinnamon Raisin Filling:
3/4 cup raisins, soaked in water and drained
1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons Saigon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/8 teaspoon salt

Egg Wash:
Whisk reserved egg with half & half or milk.

Directions for Tangzhong:

Mix flour with liquid. Cook mixture over medium heat while stirring until mixture thickens.  Do not overcook tangzhong.  The tangzhong should come to a trace but still be slightly fluid.  Allow tangzhong to cool to room temperature before using. Only half of the tangzhong mixture is used for one recipe of milk bread but is difficult to properly cook smaller amounts. Make a double recipe of bread, using different fillings, or store tangzhong in refrigerator for up to three days.

Directions for Dough Using Bread Machine:


1. Add all milk bread dough ingredients except butter to bread machine. Select dough cycle on bread machine.  Once machine forms smooth dough, add in butter and allow machine to finish dough cycle. If dough looks too dry as it is kneading, add a little more liquid. If it is too wet, add a little more flour. Resist the urge to add too much flour.  The dough should be slightly wet and will continue to absorb more water.

2. Once dough cycle is complete, transfer dough to lightly floured surface and deflate dough.

To make one braided coconut custard loaf:
3. If making one braided loaf, shape dough into a rounded ball. Cover with moist flour sack towel and allow to rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Once dough has rested, roll dough into a 7x18 inch rectangle. Spread with filling, leaving a 1/4 inch border.  Starting from longer length of dough, roll dough like a cinnamon roll, seal seams by pinching close. Dough will shrink slightly in length after rolling.  Massage and stretch dough to 14 inches in length.  Cut the roll of dough in half lengthwise, turn halves with exposed filling facing up. Braid (twist) the two halves and place in 9 inch glass or light colored  aluminum loaf pan lined with parchments paper.Cover with moist flour sack towel and proof until doubled in size in a warm, draft-free spot. Brush with egg wash. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for approximately 15 minutes and then tent the top of loaf with aluminum foil and continue to bake another 25-30 minutes. Remove from pan immediately and cool on wire rack.  Allow loaf to cool before slicing.

To make braided cinnamon raisin buns:
3.  If making braided buns, divide dough into 8 equal pieces.  This can be done by first weighing the dough and dividing the weight by 8 and shaping into balls. Cover with moist flour sack towel and allow to rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Once dough has rested, roll out each portion into a 4x8 inch rectangle. Sprinkle dough with raisins and gently press raisins into dough using rolling pin or back of spoon. Sprinkle cinnamon sugar mixture over raisins. Roll each piece of dough, sealing seams by pinch. Cut each piece almost in half lengthwise, leaving about an inch of the dough attached. Twist the cut pieces together, keeping exposed filling side facing up. Create a round bun by bringing the two ends together, gently pressing and tucking ends under.  Place each bun on a baking sheet lined with silpat or parchment. Cover buns with moist flour sack towel and proof buns until doubled in size in a warm, draft-free spot. Brush with egg wash. Bake in preheated 350 degree oven for approximately 20-30 minutes. Cool on wire rack.

Tangzhong Water Roux Starter 
Ingredients 
I can't figure out how to rotate pictures. I'm not going to worry about it right now.



Dough cycle is complete and ready to be shaped.

I made a double batch to use up all of the tangzhong. Divide dough in half.

I then divided the dough into 8 equal pieces by weight.

Cover with moist flour sack towel.

Roll out dough into rectangle.

Spread coconut mixture.

Roll dough and seal seams by pinching.

Cut in half.

Turn the halves with exposed filling facing up.

Twist two halve together.

Arrange the twist in parchment lined baking pan.
Cover and proof in warm spot until doubled in size.
Bake until done.
I baked in a glass loaf pan since the dough is very rich and I didn't want it to brown too much.

Roll dough into smaller rectangles for Cinnamon Raisin Twisted Buns.

I used a half regular and half golden raisins.

Sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar mixture.

Roll

Split but leave about an inch attached.

Twist together and tuck ends underneath.
I baked 5 out of the 8 rolls separately.
3 of the buns were place in a parchment lined mini loaf pan.

Once doubled in size, brush with egg wash and bake.

They're not perfect.

The color is beautiful once baked.

Still can't figure out how to rotate these photos.

The mini cinnamon raisin loaf sliced up.

I tried using a bread slicing guide to help cut even slices.  It took too long so I tossed it aside.
I really tried doing the meal prepping thing but I have a problem with eating old food. I've come a long way with leftovers.  I can now eat leftovers the next day but I still cannot bring myself to cook on Sundays and prep meals for the entire week.


I cooked two small chicken breast in the toaster oven. It's enough for two meals. 


I cubed the chicken breast, tossed with melted coconut oil, and seasoned with a bbq rub I premixed in a container. It has both smoked Spanish and sweet Hungarian paprika.


I packed each container with steamed asparagus and a tricolor quinoa, kale, and butternut squash salad. I ate it cold because I don't like the smell of reheated chicken.

Most days, I boil two eggs in the morning and grab items from the fridge. I sometimes make yogurt on Sundays and divvy it up into glass containers. I add a spoonful of homemade jam, frozen fruit, or honey. If I'm feeling it, I'll top it with some Kashi Go Lean Crunch instead of granola. 


No fruit but I keep a container of dried plums in my drawer at work.


I prepped these in advance. Jalapeno havarti cheese, hardboiled eggs (I don't usually boil eggs the night before because I prefer them warm and freshly boiled), sliced pears, grapes, and Ozery Muesli Morning Rounds.


The dill havarti from Trader Joe's is delicious. I really like dill havarti and since they are hard to find, I pick up a package whenever I find them. There's currently 3 packages in the fridge. 

On this day it's butterfly shaped butter cracker. The day before were heart shaped lavosh crackers. The caramel dip was a bad idea.  It was too much sugar and I felt the crash before the end of the day.

I didn't eat all this. I burnt my crumpet in the morning and was out of Morning Rounds so I left early and stopped at the store. I bought a new package of morning rounds, some Madhava raw unfiltered honey, and a box of Justin's  honey peanut butter.  Sprouts does not sell it by the box so the cashier had to open the box and ring up each package. I remembered I had medjool dates in the cupboard and packed a few before leaving the house.

I wanted pasta for dinner one night. I couldn't sub all the spaghetti noodles with zucchini. I cooked up some bronze cut spaghetti al dente and then boiled the zucchini "noodles" for about a minute. We make out pasta with turkey because I don't like the taste of beef.

It's okay to have pasta twice in one week because I used half zucchini noodles. I made a quick alfredo sauce with heavy cream and butter. I baked the no knead bread dough too soon. I should have waited the full three days before baking because it was a little bland. I still have more dough in the fridge so I'll bake the rest tomorrow.


Donut Day at work. I met the donut guy outside my office. He delivers about 25 boxes of donuts to us every month. I only ate 2.

I opened up a box and this was stamp on the inside of the box.




Saturday, February 18, 2017

Blueberry Meyer Lemon Jam for Valentine's Day




This blueberry meyer lemon jam is my favorite jam.  The first time I made it was back in December of 2014 when the associate director at my work brought in bags and bags of meyer lemons from his huge tree.  I was trying to use up the lemons so I made a few batches of blueberry meyer lemon and strawberry meyer lemon jam.  I gave most of the jam away as Christmas gifts but kept a few jars for myself.

I started using the jam to sweeten my kefir smoothies and fell in love with the citrusy floral flavor.  I used it up really quickly. Most of the time I make jam and it takes months to finish a jar.  When I started jamming, I was making several dozen jars each week as I tested different fruit and methods.

I started off making jam using the guide found on the box of pectin, moved to recipes from the Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving, and then finally on to artisan-style jams made without added pectin. Jams made without added pectin relied on cooking the fruit with sugar until the sugar reached a certain temperature to gel the jam. The texture is amazing.

Over the years I've come to prefer a different method for each fruit.  Some fruit were finicky when it comes to jamming. I never had much luck with making low sugar strawberry jam using pectin. The strawberry chunks always floated in the syrup.  I've tried slicing, crushing, blending, and leaving them whole. My frustration grew with each batch.  I then tried making strawberry jam using the no added pectin method. The longer cook time and higher sugar content resulted in no floating pieces. Except I did not like the flavor over-cooked strawberries. I then tried making freezer strawberry jam. It's the only way I make strawberry jam now.

While strawberries are difficult to work with, blueberries are easy. They work well using the regular or low sugar pectin method. The flavor withstands the longer cooking time for no pectin added jam. I've made blueberry jam using both fresh and frozen.  Fresh when they are abundant in the summer and frozen in the middle of winter.  Blueberries work well pureed with an immersion blender, sliced in the food processor, or left whole like I usually do.

I found a few containers of old pectin in my stash.  I read that pectin doesn't expire so I decided to make low sugar jam instead of cooking the sugar to temperature for this batch.

Use a non reactive pot for the jam. I like making jam in my enamaled french ovens.  I'm using my trusty 5.5 quart that I bought when Williams Sonoma had the Cherry color on sale for $119. Sometimes I use the smaller or larger sizes but the 5.5 quart round is my most versatile and lives inside while the others are stored in the garage.


Blueberry Meyer Lemon Jam:

10 cups blueberries
4 1/2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons low sugar pectin
1 teaspoon citric acid
2 meyer lemons
1/4 cup Grand Marnier (optional)

1. Mix pectin with 1/2 cup sugar and citric. I used Zulka brand sugar this time and didn't have any problems. It's cane sugar. Awhile back I read to only use C&H brand cane sugar. Some people have issues with their jams not setting when they use a store brand.  Growing up in California, most sugar on the the market is cane and not beet sugar.





2. Remove seeds and then grate the meyer lemons. I used the entire lemon including rind and pith.


3. Add lemons to the blueberry, pectin, and sugar mixture.

4. Bring the blueberries to a rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. I usually like to smash some of the blueberries while keeping most of them whole.

5. Add 4 cups sugar and Grand Marnier. Return to rolling boil and cook one minute.

6. Test for gel by either using a cold spoon or plate that has been placed in freezer.  After making a few batches of jam you will be able to tell if your jam will gel by looking at the consistency of the jam.


7. Ladle into sterilized jars. A canning funnel makes it easier (less messy). I must like canning funnels because I found three in my drawer.  I couldn't find the bubble remover or magnetic lid tool though.

8. Process ten minutes in water bath canner.  



I bought a different inset for my canner. The one that came with the canner had grooves for quart jars. I prefer 8 ounce jars. Pints are a little too big for jam and 4 ounces holds about two servings worth of jam. I love the way Weck jars look but the sizes are a little strange to me and those clips are not very practical.  After I open a jar of jam, I replace the two-piece lid/ring with a plastic twist-off cap.

I turn off the heat, lift the entire rack out of the water, and let the jars cool.  When I am making more than one batch, a jar lifter is very handy to get the hot jars out of the pot.  I usually lift them out of the pot and onto a heavy duty sheet pan to transport them to their cooling spot. Since I was only making one batch, I simply let the jars cool on the rack.  I don't believe I even took the lid off or lift them out of the water after I turned off the heat.  I left them in the pot for a little while.  It must be habit.  In Denver, I always processed my jars for 20-30 minutes instead of 10 minutes.

 I tested it out on a slice of toasted sourdough bread.

I don't believe I took a picture of the jams after I labeled the jars.  I took a screenshot of the PDFs. (At the beginning of this post.) It's basically the same labels I've used for years.  I changed the text from "from malisa's kitchen" to "happy valentine's day" since I was giving them to my team for Valentine's day. The rectangular label goes around the jar and the round label goes on lid.  

I also made chocolate drizzled pretzel rods.  I didn't dip the pretzels.  I just put them on a silicone sheet and drizzled melted chocolate on them. The Ghirardelli melting wafers are delicious. I used the leftover chocolate to make pudding and I the pudding was better with Ghirardelli than Scharffen Berger.