Sunday, January 25, 2009

Peter Reinhart's Buttermilk White Bread





I've seen pictures of this bread on thefreshloaf.com. It looked really good. The bf wanted bread with his pasta so I decided to make this recipe. I had the quart of buttermilk for the coconut cupcakes that I wanted to use up. I also had 2 teaspoons of yeast left from the packet when I made the no-knead bread. I followed this recipe. I didn't use any dough enhancer or extra gluten. The recipe is already perfect. I rushed the shaping and did not roll it as tight as I should have. It still turned out pretty well. I'll have to try it again.

Classic White Bread
(Source: Peter Reinhart The Bread Baker’s Apprentice pages 265-269)

Makes two 1-pound loaves, 18 dinner rolls, or 12 burger or hot dog buns

4¼ cups (19 ounces) unbleached bread flour
1½ teaspoons (.38 ounces) salt
3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces) sugar
2 teaspoons (.22 ounce) instant yeast
1 large (1.65 ounces) egg, slightly beaten, at room temperature
¼ cup (2 ounces) butter, margarine, or shortening, at room temperature, or vegetable oil
1½ cups (12 ounces) buttermilk or whole milk, at room temperature
1 egg, whisked with 1 teaspoon water until frothy, for egg wash (optional)
sesame or poppy seeds for garnish (optional)

1. Mix together the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Pour in the egg, butter, and milk and mix with a large metal spoon (or on low speed of the electric mixer with the paddle attachment) until all the flour is absorbed and the dough forms a ball. If the dough seems very stiff and dry, trickle in more milk until the dough is soft and supple.

2. Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mix on medium speed with the dough hook), adding more flour, if necessary, to create a dough that is soft, supple, and tacky but not sticky. Continue kneading (or mixing) for 6 to 8 minutes. (In the electric mixer, the dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick ever to slightly to the bottom.) The dough should pass the windowpane test and register 80° F. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

I didn't take of picture of the kneading. I'm still working at this step-by-step recipe photo blogging.

3. Ferment at room temperature for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size (the length of time will depend on the room temperature).

4. Remove the fermented dough from the bowl and divide it in half for sandwich loaves, into eighteen 2-ounce pieces for dinner rolls, or twelve 3-ounce pieces for burger or hot dog buns. Shape the pieces into boules for loaves or tight rounds for dinner rolls or buns. Mist the dough lightly with spray oil and cover with a towel or plastic wrap. Allow to rest for about 20 minutes

Divided into two balls. They are slightly uneven because I have two different size loaf pans.

5. For loaves, shape as shown on page 81. Lightly oil two 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pans and place the loaves in the pans. For rolls and buns, line 2 sheet pans with baking parchment. Rolls require no further shaping. For hamburger buns, gently press down on the rolls to form the desired shape. For hot dog buns, shape as shown on page 80, although without tapering the ends. Transfer the rolls or buns to the sheet pans.

(I'm sorry. I didn't take a picture when I shaped the loaves. Basically you flatten out the dough to a 5 x 8 inch rectangle. Roll the dough short side one section at a time and crease with each rotation. The roll will spread out as you roll and will end up about 8 to 9 inches long or a perfect fit for your loaf pan).

6. Mist the tops of the dough with spray oil and loosely cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Proof the dough at room temperature for 60 to 90 minutes, or until it nearly doubles in size. (I started proofing in the oven but it took too long and I we wanted to go to bed. We were not going to eat bread at 11:00 pm. I stuck the covered pans in the cold garage. No room in the fridge. I baked them in the morning and had fresh bread for breakfast.)

Above are pictures of the loaves the next morning. The rose in the cold garage but they filled the pans. I read that this dough has very little oven spring so they pretty much bake up the same size as they go in the oven.

7. Preheat the oven to 350° F for loaves or 400° F for roll and buns. Brush the rolls or buns with the egg wash and garnish with poppy or sesame seeds. Sandwich loaves also may be washed and garnished, or score them down the center and rub a little vegetable oil in the slit. (I didn't brush with an egg wash. I couldn't sacrifice an entire egg just to egg wash two loaves. I slit them and sprayed some canola oil in the slits. I don't think I scored them deep enough.)

8. Bake the rolls or buns for approximately 15 minutes, or until they are golden brown and register just above 180° F in the center. Bake loaves for 35 to 45 minutes, rotating 180 degrees halfway through for even baking, if needed. The tops should be golden brown and the sides, when removed from the pan, should also be golden. The internal temperature of the loaves should be close to 190° F, and the loaves should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom.

9. When the loaves have finished baking, remove them immediately from the pans and cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing or serving. Rolls should cool for at least 15 minutes on a rack before serving.

Carmine: The New Kitchenaid and How It Died



I bought a brand new Kitchenaid mixer on Friday. I named it Carmine. Many people are surprised that I do not already have one. I haven't bought one because I haven't really settled in anywhere. Denver was supposed to be temporary and in the last five years, I lived in four different places. I wasn't quite certain what neighborhood was right for me. I wanted to wait until I was a little more settled. I've waited for a lot of different things in my life and at some point, I have to go ahead and do it even if all prerequisites are not fulfilled. I was baking four batches of cinnamon rolls and three batches of coconut cupcakes.

I contemplated a few different models.

1. Professional 500 HD - 5 quart; 475 watts everyday low price of $279.99 at Costco. During Black Friday weekend, coupons were handed out for an additional $50 off. We were at Costco a few days before Black Friday weekend but we were both flying out of town that weekend.

2. Professional 500 - 5 quart; 325 watts on sale at Williams-Sonoma for $$229.99 reduced from $299.99

3. Artisan - 5 quart; 325 watts at most stores for $299.99. Fun colors but with a tilt head instead of a bowl lift.

4. Professonal 600 - 6 quart; 575 watts for $399.99 at most stores. Sometimes more, sometimes a little less. Metal insides versus plastic.

What should I get? Should I wait until I had a coupon for the Costco model? Should I get the reasonably priced Williams-Sonoma one? Do I want mixer head tilt or bowl lift design?

I wanted more power (although I read later on that the watts do not make much of a difference.) I wanted the ability to do more. I tend to double, triple or quadruple many recipes. (Just like the quadrupled cinnamon buns and the triple coconut cupcakes I am making for the shower.) It was obvious what I was leaning towards. I wanted the Professional 600. And with a Bed Bath and Beyond coupon, I was able to get 20% off

My reasoning:
Costco one - $299-$50= $229 but have to wait until November/December
Williams-Sonoma one - $229 with a $30 Williams-Sonoma gift card = $189. But it was a little smaller and a lot less power. If I wait for the Costco one, I can get 175 more watts.
Artisan one - Can get at Bed Bath and Beyond with 20% coupon for $299-$60=$239-BBB $30 gift card =$210.
Professional 600 - $399-$80=$320-$40 BBB gift card =$280.

I knew I wasn't going to wait until the end of the year to buy the Costco one. If Costco had the coupon, I would have probably purchased the Costco one. One less quart and 100 less watts. The bowl is skinnier and taller than the Professional 600, which has a squat bowl. Williams-Sonoma was tempting but I couldn't justify the same price for one with 175 less watts than the Costco one. The Artisan was tempting since they have so many awesome colors but the color I have always wanted was red and the other models were all available in red. The only other color aside from red that I would want is probably copper metallic. There is just something about copper kitchen stuff that is so appealing to me. Maybe because I always see copper pots and bowls in fancy kitchens. I was taught to beat egg whites in a copper bowl to stabilize the whites. (An alternative would be a glass or metal bowl with a pinch of cream of tartar. But never a plastic bowl.) I couldn't justify the price increase for it. The Artisan was $100 more expensive and the the Pro was anywhere from $50 to $100 more and they were not discounted. I could get most of the other one discounted. I chose the red Pro 600.

The test:
It started having trouble with it on Friday night as I was making the frosting for the cupcakes and the cinnamon rolls. It just kept stopping. I had better luck with the buttermilk white bread (the very first thing made in Carmine). The ultimate test was a double recipe of cinnamon rolls on Saturday morning. 9 cups of bread flour and 2 tablespoons of vital wheat gluten. I tried the Kitchenaid dough technique where you mix everything with the dough hook and continue kneading with the dough hook. It doesn't mix well with the dough hook. I had to scrape it out and mix it by hand. Then I tried kneading. About two minutes into kneading, it shuts itselt off. I had to unplug it for a few minutes and then try again. It would knead for less than a minute and shut itself off. I divided the dough in half, so 4.5 cups of flour instead of the 9. The machine is rated for 14 cups of all-purpose flour and 9 cups of wheat but no rating for bread flour. I figured it was somewhere in between. I tried just half the dough and it still could not handle it. After a few cycles of shutting down, unplugging, and trying again, it finally stopped. I tried again an hour later and it worked.

I called customer service and the very nice guy is sending me a new machine. I asked him if I was doing anything wrong. He said no, I was following directions.

I went to tea at the Brown Palace, came back home and started the cupcakes and it was fine. I need to adjust the height of the paddle. It doesn't reach down into the bottom of the bowl.

So when the next mixer arrives in about a week or two, I think I will be testing it again with a double batch of cinnamon rolls. I bought a workhorse and expect one. I don't want to pamper the thing. It is a huge hunk of heavy metal and looks very sturdy.
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Wednesday, January 21, 2009

No Knead Bread

My friend sent me a link to a no knead bread recipe. (I realize this is old news. This recipe spread like wildfire when it was first published by the NY Times.) I thought there was no way this would work. This technique was never taught to me. In all my years I've been under the impression that kneading was the key to good gluten development.

I read the various blogs and the forums on the freshloaf.com. People raved about this recipe. They even compared it to Peter Reinhart's pain al' ancienne. The recipe was featured by Mark Bittman. I really like his recipes. I decided to give it a try. The recipe uses very few ingredients and makes a small loaf so it not so much of an investment if it turns of disastrous.

NY Times recipe here:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/dining/081mrex.html

Better recipe straight from the Sullivan Street Bakery website:
http://www.sullivanstreetbakery.com/recipes/noknead.html

I started off by adding 3 cups of bread flour, 1/4 teaspoon of instant yeast, 1 1/2 teaspoon of salt into a bowl. I stirred everything with a wooden spoon. I then added 1 1/2 cups of filtered water. The recipe as printed in the NY Times had a typo. The article listed 1 5/8 cups. No one measures this way. I had an additional 1/2 cup of water since someone mentioned that they had to increase it to 2 cups at high altitude. After I dumped almost the entire half cup in, I regretted it. I should have added it slowly to see if I needed the entire half cup. My dough ended up a little too wet. If you read other blogs who use 1 5/8 cups of water, their dough is too wet. I watched the Bittman video and my goal was to get a dough with a similar viscosity. I ended up slowly adding a little more flour. The recipe says to produce a wet, shaggy dough. The dough below is wet and shaggy.
Tuesday, January 20 at 9:00 pm - After mixing, ready to be covered and left alone. I checked it in the morning before leaving for work and the dough had flattened out in the bowl with very little yeast activity. I noticed a few bubbles but not much. I re-covered the bowl.



Wednesday, January 21 at 5:20 pm - I left work a little early and immediately check the dough. Lots of bubbles. Bubbles are bigger with a higher hydration dough.

I scraped the dough out onto a floured service and folded it over in half, in another half, and in half again. I formed the dough into a nice ball and put the seam side down on a generously floured towel. (I made a mistake here. I usually wet the towel I use to cover a bowl of dough. I shouldn't have.) I read on the steamy kitchen blog that she sometimes rushes the two hour final rise by putting in a slightly warm oven. I heated the oven for about a minute, turn off the oven, left the oven door slightly ajar until the oven was just warm enough. I stuck the bowl inside the oven and let rise for about an hour.

I stuck the cast iron dutch oven (I used cast iron because the only le creuset that I have is a taller stock pot) in the oven and preheated to 475 degrees. 500 was a bit scary for me. After the preheat, I lined the dutch oven with parchment paper, sprinkled some oat bran on parchment and dumped the dough into the dutch oven. This was a mess. The dough stuck to the towel. I had a hell of a time trying to get the dough off the towel. As I soaked and rinsed the towel, I flour particles washed away and left me with nice gluten strands. The strands of gluten were so pretty. I baked the bread covered for about 25 minutes, removed the cover and then baked for another 15 minutes. Above is the bread straight out of the oven and still in the dutch oven.

Excellent color! I sorta like the oat bran on top of the bread.

I took a slice right away. I should have let it cool but I couldn't wait.
Very moist! I still cannot take very good close up photos with my camera.
The loaf is a little smushed because I took another slice.

I really like this recipe. True it takes a very long time but you can still go on with your life while you let time and a little yeast work its magic on the gluten. I actually like recipes that you can do steps ahead of time. When I made the cinnamon rolls, I had to complete a few steps, leave it alone, constantly check on its progress, do the next step, leave it, continue to check periodically, proceed to the next step...

What I would have done differently:
- I'm not sure what size dutch oven I have. I wouldn't mind a taller loaf that I can use for sandwiches. The height of this loaf is more like the ciabbata bread that Cucina Calore serves with their olive oil. Maybe I can double the recipe and bake in the same dutch oven to get a taller loaf.
- Someone suggested adding a little bit of milk or even a little bit of sugar. I'm not sure how it would effect the chemistry.
- I will put the rounded dough in an oiled bowl instead of on a floured towel. Maybe the towel will work if I use a dry towel.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Cinnabon Cinnamon Buns Clone


I do not normally do step by step recipes with photos but I've been reading a lot of other food blogs and I really like the blogs that go through the extra steps of photographing the steps and explaining the process. It is time consuming and often times when I'm cooking, I'm the only one in the kitchen so it entails having to wash my hands and pick up the camera. Since today is a holiday for me and not a holiday for the db and dr (dear roommate), I am home alone. I am also only tackling one recipe instead of my usual two, three, or ten. So this is my first attempt at step by step recipe blogging.

I've been inspired by yeast lately and over the last several days I've made six loaves of challah, a batch of parker house rolls, pandesal, and banana bread (no yeast, just an abundance of ripe bananas). We also managed to dip 100 pretzel rods and 100 fortune cookies in white chocolate for the baby shower. We went through six bottles of blue sanding sugar. The sanding sugar matches the shower colors exactly. Before Christmas my friend Lisa and I spent 12 hours in the kitchen baking holiday cookies. We made anise biscotti, craisin biscotti, soft biscotti, almond shortbread, sugar cookies, russian tea cakes, peanut butter blossoms, chocolate dipped peanut butter cookies, Wheaties cookies, holiday pretzel rods, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

Today is cinnabon cinnamon rolls. I got a recipe off this site http://www.homeonthewater.com/recipes/cinnabon%20cinnamon%20Rolls.html which I believe came from the Gordon family website.

I made a few changes based on what I had on hand. I also rewrote certain parts with bread machine instructions. I do not have a bread machine in Colorado. I have a bread machine at my parent's house in California. I didn't bring it out when I moved to Colorado. The bread machine is probably ten years old. My dear friend Kellie gave it to me. She received it as a gift from her parents. She doesn't bake bread so she never used it. I have been the recipient of several kitchen gadgets because of Kellie's parent's desire to domesticate Kellie.


Below is the recipe with my changes.

Cinnabon's® World Famous Cinnamon Rolls

DOUGH
1 1/4 C 2% Milk
1/2 C Margarine, melted
1 Egg, Extra Large Grade AA, well beaten (room temperature)
1 t Vanilla Extract
1/2 t Sea Salt
1/2 C Baker's Sugar,
4 1/2 C Unbleached White Bread Flour (1 1/4 lb)
1 T Vital Wheat Gluten
2 t Dough Enhancer or Conditioner
1/4 oz Rapid Rise Yeast (1 envelope, 7 g)

Boy that is a big block of cream cheese!! I bought a Costco block since I am making Coconut Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting for my friend's shower.

1. First step to cooking is mise en place. I got everything out, read and reread the recipe, let the egg and the margarine come to room temp.

2. In a medium microwavable bowl (ie pyrex) melt the margarine in microwave (approx 1 minute).

3. In glass measuring cup (ie pyrex) measure and microwave milk for approximately 1 minute. (I started doing this a long time ago when I made this complicated pancake recipe. It is really handy. Sometimes I can mix all the wet ingredients in the measuring cup.)


4. Add milk to melted margarine. Check temperature to make sure it is warm enough but not too hot. Add egg and vanilla. Mix well.


5. In a large mixing bowl, measure the dry ingredients (the rest of on this list) and combine.

6. Make well in center of dry ingredients. Pour in wet ingredients and mix with wooden spoon. You will have to ditch the wooden spoon after the ingredients combine. Transfer dough onto clean surface and knead. I knead for a little over ten minutes because I really have trouble with my hands on fingers and I'm not a good dough kneader. Form the dough into a boule (ball).

7. This is the point where I wash everything.

8. In the same large bowl (I have two identical so I don't always have to wash) spray some oil onto the bowl. Put dough in the bowl. Spray with a little more oil and cover with plastic wrap. Put in a warm draft free spot to rise about an hour or doubled in bulk. I sometimes turn on the oven, turn it off, check to make sure temp is not too hot and stick bowl of dough in oven. Or sometimes I take it upstairs into one of the extra rooms. In the winter, with the heat on, it gets nice and toasty upstairs.

FILLING
1 C Light Brown Sugar, firmly packed (0.4255 lb)
5 T Saigon Cinnamon
pinch of Sea Salt
1/2 C Margarine (0.25 lb, i.e. 1 stick)

1. In a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt. I find that a little salt in sweets brings out a better sweet flavor. My mom tends to overdo the salt. When she makes the coconut sauce for mango sticky rice, the sauce is too salty. I always have to remind her to use less salt.

2. After the dough has doubled roll and stretch the dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 15" by 24" (38 cm by 61 cm) rectangle. I used my nifty silicone baking sheets with inch and cm guides to help with this. It is still very difficult to get a perfect rectangle. I figured the center ones will be the picture perfect buns and the edge ones will go into what my sister and friends like to call the "reject" piles when we make sushi rolls. The edge pieces were always gobbled up as soon as I rolled them and the center pieces were the ones that ended up on the platter.

3. Mark off 1" along the 24" edge of the dough, closest to you. You will not spread any Margarine or Sugar-Cinnamon mixture on this edge. Spread the softened Margarine over the dough with a rubber spatula (or your hands and fingers) and then evenly distribute the Sugar and Cinnamon mixture. Be careful to leave your 1" edge clean. As a final step, use your rolling pin to lightly roll the Sugar and Cinnamon mixture.



4. Starting at the far edge of the dough, roll it up tightly. Begin at the far 24" edge and roll up the dough toward the 1" clean edge. The clean 1" edge is used to seal the finished roll. Trim the left and right ends of the roll. The result will be a 24" roll. Trim off the left and right ends of the roll so that you have a fulsh end at each end of the roll. Then mark the roll every 1 1/2 inches (3.8 cm). Cut the roll into 1 1/2" portions. I read different suggestions on what to use to slice the dough. I have two different slicers and dental floss. The first slicer is from my Cuisinart set I use as my everyday set. The set is inexpensive enough that I am not afraid to let other people use. It is also nice enough for me to use. I'm picky about my knives. I also have my f.dick superior series slicer. This is the Johnson & Wales set and very nice. I get nervous when I let other people handle this set. I also have dental floss. I tried both slicers and they both did an excellent job so no need to waste floss. If you don't have a good slicer, use the dental floss. You should get 15 rolls.



5. Line your baking pans with parchment paper. Place 5 rolls into 8" square baking pans 1" apart. (One roll in each corner, and one in the center.) I ended up getting 16 rolls instead of 15 because my log was slightly more tapered at the ends and longer than 24". I used two square cake pans and one round one. The squares each had 5 buns and the round had 6 buns. Cover with a lint free cloth (I used flour sack towels) and let rise in a warm, draft free place until almost double, approximately 1 hour. After rising, rolls should be touching each other and the sides of the pan. This is important for best results. This gives the resulting rolls the soft, moist outer edge that most people prefer.



6. After rising, bake in a convection oven at 310°F for 15 minutes. If you are using a conventional oven, bake at 350°F for 20 minutes. The resulting rolls should be only lightly browned. (See the rolls are only slightly browned and almost too pale? Well any darker and you will have hard crusty buns and overcooked centers. Cinnabon centers are still doughy. I actually prefer them a little more cooked but since I wanted to replicate the experience, I took them out of the oven.) The author of the recipe suggests baking one pan at a time to get uniform results in a regular oven.

FROSTING
4 oz Cream Cheese (0.25 lb)
1/2 C Margarine (0.25 lb, i.e. 1 stick)
1 3/4 C 10x Powdered Sugar (1/2 lb)
1 t Vanilla
1/8 tsp Lemon Juice

The original recipe has a complicate recipe for frosting. It takes 50 minutes. I decided that wasn't necessary since it was going on top of hot rolls anyway.

1. Put margarine and cream cheese in a pyrex bowl. Add the vanilla and lemon juice. Stick the bowl in the oven with the dough. The oven is slightly warmer in my house. Wait a while.
2. Cream the margarine and cream cheese. Slowly add the powdered sugar and cream everything together until light and fluffy.
3. Transfer the finished frosting to a convenient covered container and refrigerate it. Once the rolls are finished baking, frost them while they're still very warm and serve them immediately. I didn't frost them immediately because I wasn't serving them yet. I took one for myself, frosted it and ate it. I took another one and put in on the same plate for the photo above.

Ingredient Notes:
- Milk: Original recipe called for 1/4 cup water and 1 cup whole milk. I don't usually buy whole millk so I just used 1 1/4 cups 2% milk.

- Margarine: Original recipe calls for butter in the dough but I read on many posts that Cinnabon uses margarine called Oleo. Margarine produces a gooey-er dough with gooey-er center and creamier frosting than butter. I do not know the last time I purchased margarine. When I was younger, I experimented with various baking recipes by using butter, margarine, and crisco (regular and butter flavored). I liked the flavor or butter but loved the ease of creaming with margarine and crisco. I couldn't even find it in the store. Apparently everyone stopped labeling their margarine as margarine. I ended purchasing Blue Bonnet Regular Sticks. The store brand was labeled margarine and I compared the ingredients and fat content and they were fairly close. Plus Blue Bonnet was the only brand that read "bakes like butter".

- Egg: The recipe called for 1 1/4 large egg. I specifically bought extra large eggs since my last few egg purchases have all been large and not extra large. The Barefoot Contessa also recommends extra large eggs in her newest book. She said her baking improved once she started using extra large instead of large.

- Vanilla: I couldn't find alcohol free vanilla extract. I have a bottle of Rodelle brand pure vanilla and it seems to work very well in my other recipes. http://www.rodellevanilla.com Hey I can only do so much. I'm sure Cinnabon doesn't seek out all the finest ingredients. The website says the plant is wind-powered and the company is socially responsible. It is also a local Colorado company. McCormick uses corn syrup in their vanilla extract.

- Salt: I only use sea and kosher salt in my cooking. I sent the db out for sea salt the last time I ran out. He bought the kind with the little metal pouring spigot. I can never get it opened with my nails. It is so annoying. My other bottle was so much easier to open. I had to refrain from purchasing a different brand with a different dispenser. I may have to repackage it because I know the container will last a long time.

- Flour: King Arthur bread flour is a little too expensive here. I get the Gold Medal Better for Bread flour. I suppose I can try other brands. Sunflower Market probably sells bulk bread flour. I also found Pillsbury and Arrowhead Mills. Sometimes with these expensive specialty brands, they tend to sit on the shelf a little longer than the cheaper stuff.

- Vital Wheat Gluten: This helps with the rise and texture of the bread. I purchased mine at Vitamin Cottage in their pre-packaged bulk items section. Since I started looking for this ingredient, I've found it at several regular grocery stores. I believe under the brand Hodgson Mills.

- Dough Enhancer: My Johnson & Wales challah recipe calls for a dough conditioner. They essentially serve the same purpose. Although different brands have different ingredients. I have the Authentic Foods brand dough enhancer. I purchased it from Vitamin Cottage. There are several online websites that sell similar products. I just haven't gotten around to ordering it. Plus the shipping fees are ridiculous! The dough enhancer is a little expensive but I bake in high altitude so I'll try anything. Most dough enhancers and conditioners have acsorbic acid, lecithin, and sometimes ginger, gluten, and a few other ingredients. I think you can look online for a recipe for making your own bread enhancer. A lot of recipes with whole wheat recommend using a dough enhancer to help with the rise. I believe bread machine yeast actually has acsorbic acid added.

- Yeast: I've had good results with Fleischmann's rapid rise yeast. I remember baking with Red Star wet yeast from costco when I was younger. I could never get a good rise. Maybe I killed the yeast when I added it to the warm liquid or during storage. I'm not sure. I hated making bread. I just recently was brave enough to try baking with yeast again. First I tried the active dry but then I bought Peter Reinhart's The Bread Baker's Apprentice and he prefers rapid rise or instant yeast because you get more live yeast, it lasts a long time, and you can add it directly to your dry ingredients. He says that even though it is labeled rapid rise, it is actually a very potent, slow to awaken yeast.

- Light Brown Sugar: I used dark brown. I just find that you get more bang for your buck when you buy dark brown since there is more molasses. I also have molasses in my pantry. It helps out when I run out or am short on brown sugar. I mainly have it for another recipe that calls for it.

- Cinnamon: So Cinnabon uses something called Makara Cinnamon. Since this is a cinnamon bun recipe and even Pillsbury's can of cinnamon rolls claim to use Cinnabon cinnamon, I thought it worth it to seek a better cinnamon than what I have in my pantry. I did some reading and Makara is marketing name and Cinnabon actually uses Korintje or Korintji cinnamon. I walked down the spice aisle and found Saigon cinnamon and Watkin's brand pure ground cinnamon. They were the fanciest cinnamons in the store so I bought both. I also had a bottle of Simply Organic brand cinnamon. I bought the Saigon and the Watkin's cinnamon. I smelled all three brands and decided that the Saigon had the best scent. It was closer to cinnamon flavor of cinnamon red hots. It also had a lot more essential oil than regular cinnamon. It clumped in the bottle and was a pain to get out. It was just McCormick's Gourmet Collection and I could definitely tell a difference between the Gourmet Collection and the regular McCormick. After I made the cinnamon sugar mixture, I googled Watkin's cinnamon and the site says they use korintje cinnamon as their regular cinnamon. They also carry the Saigon variety but that is clearly marked. No where on their label does it say korintje cinnamon. Maybe they should start marketing it as such. The packaging is actually very attractive. The Simply Organic cinnamon is Cinnamomum burmannii or Indonesian cinnamon. I've been reading about Ceylon cinnamon, Saigon cinnamon, and korintje cinnamon. Wow a whole lot of cinnamon education today! Maybe I'll make a visit to the little spice store and get some of their special cinnamon. I actually worked at a spice store before and I didn't find that the spices were that much better. Maybe fresher since all the area restaurants purchased their spices and special proprietary blends from this place. Costco also carries a huge bottle of Saigon cinnamon now.


My observations:
- I am overall very happy with the recipe. It tastes really good. I will be making this again.
- This recipe actually tells you to smush the cinnamon sugar mixture into the dough with a rolling pin. I found that this really helped with the oozing everyone talks about when they bake their buns. If you find a lot of oozing, immediately flip the buns out of the pan and pour the cinnamon syrup back into your buns. Mine did not ooze much. I left them in the pan and the syrup actually caramelized and formed a nice crunch on the bottoms.
- Flat or domed? If you prefer your buns flat like pucks, don't roll the dough too tight. If you prefer them to be puffier in the center, roll them tight. I tried rolling them really tight but mine were not that tight so I only got slightly raised centers.
- Size: I was expecting Cinnabon-size buns but I got somewhere between Minibon and Cinnabons. I'm not sure if this was because of the altitude or my lack of kneading skills. I notice that my yeasted doughs do not have a good rise.
- Taste: These taste like heaven. I already ate two. They are a very good clone of Cinnabon. I can now make my own and refrigerate or freeze them in small batches. The db already requested that these be added my breakfast repertoire. This weekend the challah will likely become challah french toast. I have regular, raisin, and nutella challah.
- Variations: The copycat recipe in the famous copycat book uses AP flour instead of bread. I'm not sure if this has much of an effect. The only fear I had with using bread flour was the buns not being tender enough. I didn't have an issue with this. Maybe next time I'll try it with AP flour. I keep a couple different types of flours around. Regular unbleached AP, high altitude bleached AP (it is usually on sale here in Colorado), unbleached bread, whole wheat, soy, and rice. The db also asked if I can add raisins next time. I told him Cinnabon does not use raisins in their buns. Perhaps I will oblige next time

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Challah

Challah

I decided that since it will be a nice long weekend, I will spend one of the days baking. Now the BF requested pasta so it looks like I will also be making red sauce. I told him to get me a #10 can of crushed tomatoes.

One of my friend's started making these no knead bread recipes. She did cinnamon rolls and challah. I was inspired. I wanted to make challah but not the no knead way. Maybe I'll try it one day but I still believe that good bread must have good strands of gluten formation and those good strands are created by kneading.

I've only made challah once before in my intro to baking 101 while at Johnson & Wales. I usually have no patience for real baking, especially yeasted breads and piped frostings and icing. Oh I think royal icing is fascinating but I have no patience to pipe it. Royal icing is best applied with a dinner knife or rubber spatula.

We managed to make some decent baked goods in class despite the time we altitude adjusted the pie crust recipe. We had a team project. Each team had to bake a pie, a cookie, a cheesecake, a laminated dough, and a quick bread. The recipes were chosen for us. I think we had apple pie, peanut butter cookies, raspberry cheesecake, croissants, and corn bread. The project taught us teamwork, teahnique, and timing. When we got our recipes we had to come up with a game plan. I thought I was so clever. I said we must first do the conversions to yield the correct amount and we must altitude adjust. Everyone grab a recipe of two and started working on it. Someone in my group altitude adjusted the pie crust recipe. Pie crusts do not need to be adjusted since there is no leavening. During our spare time (while we were waiting for the butter layer to chill in the laminated dough) we had to work on our Challah.

I couldn't find chef Kramer's challah recipe. I believe we used Chef Kramer's recipe or maybe we used the Johnson & Wales one. I looked up some recipes and ended up using a combination of Peter Reinhart's recipe in The Bread Maker's Apprentice and the recipe in the Johnson & Wales Culinary Fundamentals book.

I'm planning on baking on Saturday with my friend Lisa. Of course I have to try out the recipe before the actual baking day. I baked Pandesal and Challah tonight. The pandesal post will have to come later. This was my first time making pandesal and although they were quite yummy, I still need to work on the shaping. There is also an off flavor that I cannot seam to figure out. I want my pandesal exactly like the ones at Valerio's. Maybe Valerio's uses AP flour and not bread flour.

I'm fairly happy with the results of the challah. Honestly I was expecting a dense loaf. I've tried baking bread at home a long long time ago and we used Red Star yeast from Costco. I was never happy with the results. I'm not sure if it was the yeast or my kneading skills. I am starting to have arthritis in my fingers so kneading is difficult for me. I did make Parker House Rolls for Thanksgiving and they turned out okay. They did not rise as much as I wanted them to but they were still soft and had they best flavor.

Back to the challah. The appearance of my homemade challah is not like the ones we made at Johnson & Wales. I swear it is the oven. When I grow up I will have one of those ovens just like at Johnson & Wales. Oh I will also have a huge Hobart mixer. Look at the two photos below. The first is the one our group made in class. We did a plain, a plain with poppy seeds on top, and a raisin one. Just look how perfect they looks.



My attempt tonight looks like this:


Oh the pink lining is one of my new silicone baking pads. I don't acutally own a silpat. Just a bunch of these silicone pads. I actually prefer them to parchment paper. No waste and they do a better job of preventing burnt bottoms.


They don't look bad but the way they baked up do not look as nice as the ones made in the good oven. The browning is not as even and the crust is crustier (if that makes any sense). I tasted a slice tonight and the texture was good. I can't tell you whether or not I liked the taste since I had just finished three of the pandesals that I also baked today. I read that malt syrup gives bread a distinct flavor. The Johnson & Wales recipe used malt syrup and honey. The Bread Baker's Apprentice didn't use either. He used sugar. Oh I also added a little vital wheat gluten for a little extra gluten to help me with the kneading.

Challah
Adapted from The Bread Baker's Apprentice & Johnson & Wales Culinary Fundamentals

Ingredients:

4 cups (18 ounces) unbleached bread flour
1 teaspoon (.25 ounce) salt
1-1/3 teaspoons (.15 ounce) instant yeast
½ teaspoon dough enhancer (I was looking for dough conditioner but could only get enhance locally. They serve the same purpose but the ingredients are different.)
2 teaspoons vital wheat gluten
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) vegetable oil
2 large (3.3 ounces) eggs, slightly beaten
2 large (1.25 ounces) egg yolks, slightly beaten
3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp to 1-1/8 cups (7 to 9 ounces) water, warm (original recipe says room temp but I found that a little warm water helps dissolve the honey and the malt syrup. Also found that the yeast was a lot happier in my pandesal recipe since I I used milk that I heated in the microwave for about a minute.)
1 drop yellow food coloring
¼ cup honey (I like local honey since it is supposed to help with my allergies.)
½ teaspoon malt syrup
2 egg whites, whisked until frothy, for egg wash
Sesame or poppy seeds for garnish

Instructions:

Stir together the flour, salt, yeast, dough enhancer, and vital wheat gluten in a mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, eggs and yolks, 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, food coloring, honey, and malt syrup. Pour the egg mixture into the flour mixture. Mix with a spoon (or on low speed with the paddle attachment) until all the ingredients gather and form a ball. Add the remaining water, if needed.

Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and knead for about 10 minutes (or mix at medium-low speed for 6 minutes with the dough hook), sprinkling in more flour if needed to make a soft, supple, but not sticky dough. The dough should register approximately 80°F (27°C).

Lightly oil a large bowl. Form the dough into a boule and transfer into the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Ferment for 1 hour at room temperature.

Remove the dough from the bowl and knead for 2 minutes to degas. Re-form it into a ball, return the ball to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and ferment for an additional hour. It should be at least 1-1/2 times its original size.

Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into 3 equal pieces for 1 large loaf, or 6 pieces for 2 loaves. (Or, for a celebration challah, divide it into 3 equal pieces and combine 2 of those pieces and form them into 1 large dough. Take this larger piece and divide it into 3 equal pieces. Take the smaller dough and divide it into 3 pieces as well; in the end, you will have 3 large pieces and 3 small pieces.) Regardless of the size of the loaves you decide to make, form each of the pieces into a boule, cover them with a towel, and let them rest on the counter for 10 minutes.

Roll out the pieces into strands, each the same length, thicker in the middle and slightly tapered toward the ends. Braid them using the 3-braid method shown. (If making the celebration challah, lay the smaller braid on top of the larger braid, gently pressing the smaller braid onto the larger to adhere.) Line a sheet pan with baking parchment and transfer the loaf or loaves to the pan. Brush the loaves with the egg wash. Mist the loaves with spray oil and cover loosely with plastic wrap or place the pan in a food-grade plastic bag.

Proof at room temperature for 60 to 75 minutes, or until the dough has grown to 1-1/2 times its original size.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) (325°F (160°C) for the celebration challah) with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Brush again with egg wash and sprinkle sesame seeds on top.

Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking for 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the loaf. The bread should be a rich golden brown and register 190°F (88°C) in the center.

When done, transfer the bread to a rack and cool for at least 1 hour before slicing or serving.

Yield: Makes 1 large braided loaf, 2 smaller loaves, or 1 large double-braided celebration loaf

Overall I do like the recipe and will have to try it without the malt syrup and dough enhancer to see if it makes much of a difference. The dough enhance and the honey is supposed to keep the bread fresher longer. I'm not sure if that is all that important since any stale challah will most definitely become my favorite challah french toast.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Red Sauce

The BF asked what I wanted for dinner. I said I wanted Green Chile and he said it was too warm for green chile. So I asked him what he wanted because I knew he wasn't up for my green chile suggestion. He suggested lasagna. Lasagna sounded good. When we got to the store we stood in the pasta aisle and the BF asked how I felt about manicotti. I wasn't up for stuffing manicotti so I suggested shells instead. The sauce went on the manicotti.

- few tablespoons olive oil
- 6 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1 T dried oregano
- 2 cans crushed tomatoes (i like san marzano's but they are not always available.)
- 2 carrots, shredded
- 2 ribs celery, small dice
- 1 pound italian sausage (sometimes i make meatballs but that is for a different post.)
- 1 sugar
- 2 bay leaves
- fresh basil
- 1 can tomato paste

i think this sauce changes depending on my mood and what i'm making the sauce for. since this was for shells, i decided to go the simple route. i sometimes use a little wine but the BF doesn't like wine so no wine this time. i didn't bother with fresh oregano but i did have some fresh basil. i don't usually use tomato paste but i didn't have all day to cook the sauce so after about an hour and a half of simmering, i added a little paste. i usually grate some parmesan cheese in the sauce but since there was a lot of cheese for the shells. i think my sauce is the best when i use the best ingredients and when i make meatballs. the meat juice from the meatballs are really flavorful.

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

My Perfect Fried Rice

For years the perfect fried rice has eluded me. I mean I can cook most things and cook them well. But for some reason my fried rice tasted off. Something wasn't right. After some experimenting, I discovered that an ingredient I thought was crucial was the reason why the perfect fried rice has escaped me for so long. Soy sauce was the culprit. After getting the taste right, I had to also get the texture right.

And now the secret to perfect fried rice.

The day before or at least a few hours before, cook the rice. Fried rice was intended to use up day old rice. The rice should be slightly dried out. Sometimes when I have a craving for fried rice and have no day-old rice, I will cook the rice with slightly less water than usual. I spread the rice out, fan it and let it cool. Oh one more thing - use jasmine rice.

Ingredients:
- 4 cups day-old jasmine rice
- sea salt, to taste
- fish sauce, to taste
- maggi sauce, to taste
- msg, to taste (omit it if you want but i think it really enhances the flavor of asian food.)
- black pepper, to taste
- 3 T. oil (I use canola)
- 3 links of chinese sausage, diced
- half an onion, diced
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 2 cups mixed veggies (i use whatever i have. most of the time it is frozen mixed veggies. sometimes it is fresh corn kernels off the cob, diced carrots, broccoli florets, tomatoes)
- two eggs
- cilantro (optional. i don't always have cilantro. sometimes i have thai basil in the freezer and will toss that in for a more thai-style fried rice.)

1. separate the grains of rice. season with salt, fish sauce, maggi sauce, msg, and black pepper. Set aside.

2. heat a large pan (wok, stir fry, or even a dutch oven) on high heat. add oil. when oil is hot, add chinese sausage, onions, and garlic. cook until sausage is brown.

3. add veggies and cook until all liquid has evaporated and slightly charred.

4. push everything to the side. add eggs and cook until set. don't scramble the eggs. you want big curds of eggs.

5. add rice an cook for several minutes on high heat. i like to leave it to stick to the bottom of the pan and get a little charred.
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Monday, September 15, 2008

Peach Cobbler

I decided to make peach cobbler for the 4th of July weekend. It wasn't the height of the Palisade peach season but I was able to get some decent looking peaches at the store. I left with $20 in peaches. Was it worth it? After baking, the peaches were all mushy liked Del Monte cling peaches. No wonder so many people use canned peaches.

The peaches were gorgeous.
After a scoring, they were dunked into a pot of boiling water for a few seconds.

See the scoring?
...And the finished product. I peeled and sliced the peaches. I tossed the peaches with some brown sugar, cinnamon, almond extract, and some unflavored gelatin. The cobbler portion was made with flour, leavening, sugar, butter, and milk.

The large one in the aluminum pan was for the 4th of July BBQ we were going to and the little one in the gratin dish was for Mr. J. I served it with some whipped cream.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Whole Foods Tuna Salad with Sun-Dried Cranberries and Lemon

Whole Foods Tuna with Sun-Dried Cranberries and Lemon

2 cans solid white albacore tuna
6 tablespoons canola mayonnaise
juice from 1 fresh lemon
4 tablespoons finely chopped yellow onion
1/2 teaspoon baker's sugar
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped sun-dried cranberries (not craisins)
kosher salt, to taste
black pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients except for the tuna. Drain the tuna and add to the other ingredients. Combine gently, making sure to not overmix. (This helps keep the tuna in more solid pieces. Hey you are paying more for the solid pack white albacore.)

Lately I've been spending a small fortune on the tuna salad with cranberries at Whole Foods. I saved on of the lids with the ingredients list and then I searched for a recipe. I found one. I made this for dinner tonight. This is the best tuna salad ever.

For some ingredients I believe it is crucial to use the Whole Foods 365 brand.  I really like the 365 canola mayo and believe it really makes a difference.  The other important ingredient is the sun-dried cranberries. In the bulk food section of Whole Foods there is a product called sun-dried unsweetened cranberries. They also sell the sweetened cranberries right next to it.  On occasion Whole Foods has run out of the unsweetened sun-dried variety and I've used sweetened and reduced the amount of sugar I add.
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Saturday, December 16, 2006

Almond Shortbread Lollipops








I decided I wanted to do some Holiday baking. I went to Crate & Barrel yesterday and bought some cute cookie cutters. I opted for pretty generic shapes because I have Jewish friends. I didn't like the snowflake one. Bummer. I made all star cookies on lollipop sticks. They are all baked and in airtight containers rights now. I will decorate with white chocolate and royal icing tomorrow. I made four batches using two pounds of butter.

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter (I bought Horizon Organic)
1/2 cup baker's sugar
2 teaspoons almond extract
2 - 2 1/2 cups of unbleached all purpose flour
water (as needed)

1. Cream together butter, sugar, and almond extract. (Bring butter to room temperature first.)
2. Mix in flour one cup at a time. You may not need the last 1/2 cup depending on consistency. I had to add a few drops of water to get the dough to come together. It was too crumbly. I thought I was going to have to toss it but I did a test bake and it tasted wonderful.

Tommorow they will be dipped in white chocolate and decorated with blue or red royal icing. Too bad the snowflake cutter was too difficult to deal with.