Latkes: Malisa’s Preference

Let me preface this by saying that I am not Jewish so my own preference may differ from those who grew up eating latkes made by their mothers or grandmothers. Although I am not Jewish, I think I can make a mean matzo ball soup. I was tasked with making matzo ball soup for Passover dinner. I did my research, procured all the necessary ingredients and then proceeded to make the most wonderful broth in the world. My secret ingredient? Shh…chicken feet. Yes the gelatin in the chicken feet and wings made a broth with a very nice mouthfeel.

I digress. I’m not posting about matzo ball soup. I’m posting about latkes (aka potato pancakes). I was first introduced to this wonderful fried piece of heaven in the fifth grade. We had a year long substitute teacher named Ms. Feldgreber. We made latkes in class. Over the years I experimented a bit but never really found perfection until just a few years ago.

I was invited to Hanukkah dinner at a friend’s house. I asked if I could come early to help (watch) the preparation. I paid careful attention to the part where she was preparing the latkes. After peeling the mountain of potatoes (she invited 12 to dinner) my friend lugged her Cuisinart out of the cupboard. Hmm…interesting. I always thought that the best latkes were made using a box grater. My friend is all about making the task easier for herself, while I am the one who obsess about perfectly macedoine potatoes for the soup that will later be blended.


The Cuisinart produced these wonderful long and thin shreds of potatoes that fried up perfectly crisp. She didn’t use much to bind the potatoes. She merely added a few eggs and fried them up in her “chicken fryer.”

I resisted the urge to replace my broken food processor for many years. I told myself I have too many kitchen equipment and a food processor was an unnecessary appliance. (It is like my resistance to buy a slow cooker even though I do envy my friend Jenny’s Cuisinart slow cooker.) Every single time I see my friend use her Cuisinart it made me want one.

I know there are two camps when it comes to food processor or box grater. For me, I like the long thin strands of potatoes versus the short and squat pieces you get from a box grater. The long strands intertwine together and help keep the little bird’s nest shape. Before I had to use flour (or matzo meal) as an additional binding ingredient to help keep the potatoes together. I didn’t like the “doughy” texture of the cakes. Hey I know some people like that “doughy” texture and some even like latkes made with mashed potatoes. I even tried a tip I read somewhere about using the potato starch that sinks to the bottom of the bowl when you strain the potatoes. No luck.

The next decision is choosing the variety of potato. For years I belittled the ordinary russet in favor of the newer varieties on the market. I always reached for the bag of Yukon or Klondike Rose potatoes. With these potatoes I made substandard latkes. The latkes were always too “mushy” for me. After eating these substandard latkes, I turned my attention back to russets. Remember reading “Fast Food Nation” and the potato varieties selected for McDonald’s French fries? Russet and russet burbank potatoes are among the very few varieties that are used by McDonald’s. So after many years of being anti-russet I am rediscovering the taste and texture of russets. The bf went grocery shopping and came back with a large bag of russets. I didn’t want to waste them to I started cooking with them. Wow! I had forgotten the taste and texture of russets.

So below is my ideal latke recipe.

2 cups yellow onions
5 cups russet potatoes (approximately 6 medium potatoes)
3 eggs
salt and pepper, to taste
paprika
mild tasting oil (such as canola)

1. Using a Cuisinart fitted with a medium shredding dish, process the onions followed by the potatoes.
2. Transfer the potato and onion mixture to a strainer and squeeze out as much water as possible. (You can use a flour sack towel for this.)


3. Transfer the potato mixture into a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs and seasoning and mixture. Fry immediately in a large frying pan. (Russets discolor rather quickly. The onions and eggs help with the oxidation but you still don’t want to hold this mixture for too long.

Some people ask me how to prevent food from sticking to a non non-stick pan. I learned to cook using non non-stick pans. My mom did not own any non-stick pans. After several failed attempts at cooking eggs, I finally asked my mom how to cook in her pans. She told me to make sure I heat the pan first, add the oil, let the oil heat up and then place the food in the pan. Don't attempt to move the food until it is cooked on the bottom.

See no sticking. I don't cook everything in non non-stick pans. I own a few cheap Bialetti non-stick pans from Costco. I used one today to make an omelet for the bf. I remember I bought a set of T-Fal pans for my mom. She didn't use them much.